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The Don

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Everything posted by The Don

  1. You already have what is available in the posts above............ If it's fitted with the oem sigma alarm there is also a fuel cut circuit.
  2. Colour pictures would be helpful to clarify what cut wires/connectors you are talking about. The nearest workshop manual to MY99/00 I have (in full) is MY97 with a few circuit diagrams for MY98. For MY99/00 there were some changes ( engine wiring changes EJ20G to EJ205) I would say that two of the blocks at the base of the A pillar are probably for the Door loom and the rear loom but without knowing proper location and a view of the wiring colours difficult to say for sure.
  3. Simplified version from P1 supplement
  4. Attached are two relevant pages for the MY00 engine electrical wiring diagrams (should be the same as MY99??). Although for LHD model (MY99/00 workshop manual info difficult to find) it should give you an idea of the wiring layout (roughly the same for LHD/RHD) although it's possible wire colours could differ. As can be seen the fuel pump relay activating coil is supplied from an ignition circuit source (FB-10 fuse #11) and its output controlled by the ECU. The switch side of the relay, which also supplies the Main relay, is a direct battery supply (MB-3 SBF-5), and then onto t
  5. Where abouts in the engine bay is the noise coming from?? If it's drivers side rear of the inlet manifold, it could be the fuel pressure regulator passing fuel back to the tank as there is no demand. Primimg AFAIK is controlled by the ECU and pump is switched back on when engine starts. Has this just started happening or been there since you started restoring? Sounds like there maybe a wiring issue?
  6. For a RHD MY99 i believe it should be up under the drivers side dash on the bulkhead outboard of the pedals and have a green 4 pin plug. Next to it will be the main relay with a brown plug
  7. It depends how many wires are connected to the 3 pin plug on the Alternator. It also has the bolt on terminal, separate from the plug - main output to system/battery. Pin 1 - return feedback voltage to voltage regulator Pin 2 - charging light in dash/combimeter Pin 3 - connection to ECU - controls regulator output - the "smart" part. No load no charge. If the alternator is charging it should be around the 14-14.3v mark However it sounds as if you have a high battery drain issue for it to go "flat" so quickly.
  8. The Don

    JAPFEST Silverstone

  9. The Don

    JDM COMBE

  10. I've no idea as the link I posted in that thread was just that a link to a lamp that would fit the available space. You will need to do some additional research although a simple google using Rally giants suggest that they use 55W bulbs
  11. What ever you get to replace the originals, you would probably need to remove the existing fixing mount and replace with the arrangement Scooby Sport used- a plate on the back of the light to match with the Subaru mounts. Scooby Sport as originally founded/run by Pete Croney in Basildon has been long gone. Hayward and Scott used to make the original Scooby Sport back boxes but who runs the scoobysport.com site, I've no idea.
  12. https://www.scoobynet.com/lighting-and-other-electrical-14/1063756-driving-lights-to-replace-cibie-oscar.html
  13. You say you've tried it on an external power supply and it's OK - what was the actual voltage?? Have you tried it in the car with a battery charger attached to the battery?? You may need to fully charge your car battery. You may have a dodgy alternator - subaru use "intelligent" alternators that require a certain amount of load before they start recharging the battery
  14. Just to confirm At the Subaru loom pin 6 - Battery+ (Red/blue) connects to Yellow in the Subaru/ISO adaptor connects to Yellow in the radio loom. At the Subaru loom pin 10 - Acc + (Yellow/green) connects to Red in the Subaru/ISO adaptor connects to Red in the radio loom. Have you checked both fuses? Battery+ in the fuse box under the bonnet (fuse #2) and Acc+ in the fuse box drivers right knee (fuse #9) If all above it could be a problem with the ignition switch, but if the old unit worked OK maybe not. Assume the blue/white plugs are connected for the aerial amp?
  15. Did the old unit work OK? Which Pioneer AVH model?? Have you used an ISO to Subaru adaptor cable?? The radio has two supplies, 1 from the Battery (for memory ) and the other from the "Accessories" (power) output from the ignition system. Have you connected the wires correctly in the supplied iso loom? Basic common blobeye audio wiring diagrams
  16. This thread my give you some enlightenment https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/hold-button-on-panel-by-gear-stick.17587/
  17. If you are refering to the 3 main M5 screws that attach the mirror to the door (904710006) you could replace them with https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-5mm-FLANGED-BUTTON-HEAD-SCREWS-ALLEN-KEY-SOCKET-BOLTS-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-/181145344760 as long as you know the length. The front trim screw (904550024) is an M5x10 tapping screw (black)
  18. And all the best to you too Dave. Here's hoping for a more normal 2021.
  19. BC5-023617 is both chassis and VIN and was built in June 1990 as a First Generation Dark Blue (013) Legacy GT Automatic Saloon with an EJ20G turbo engine. 013 paint code https://legacypic.uk/specifications/specpage.php?id=137&ref=bc5b49p
  20. https://forums.sidc.co.uk/topic/166914-knockhill-27th-march-2021/ https://forums.sidc.co.uk/store/category/1-sidc-club-events-track-days/
  21. The Forums will be off line from approx 1400 hrs today for a database upgrade - hopefully not for toooo long (quoted as about an hour)
  22. Physically they should fit but the wiring may be different depending upon whether mirror heating circuit fitted in donor car (MY06/7 UK - probably) and recipient car (?) UK/European Bugeye UK/European MY06/7
  23. In case they were not with it, here are the "fitting" instructions mirror cover001.pdf
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