Jump to content

TonyD90

Forum-Member
  • Content Count

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

TonyD90 last won the day on January 21

TonyD90 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About TonyD90

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. 10 Year Tony haha, you know the shock absorbers, the bounce sponges, velocity resistors 😂 I was reversing in the snow and the jolting was very apparent on full lock. I could see in the snoo tracks that is was only one front wheel dragging. I'm going to change the g/box fluid and see if that helps, failing that i will be looking at suspension... ...but should I upgrade? 🤫 Being a new member I feel I am the Tony II
  2. Tony, when you say struts do you mean the dampers themselves or the top mounts or some other part of the strut? Mine does this pretty bad, makes it stall sometimes if you arn't quick enough to increase the throttle/dip the clutch. Really "notchy" in reverse and full lock. Another Tony
  3. Hello All, Ever since I've owned my subaru the ABS seems to cut in very early making stopping times longer not shorter. I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience. The tyres are ditch finders but I'm used to driving a drift bmw with ditch finders on and that stops incredibly well in comparison. When the ABS works on the legacy it hardly pushes you forward out of your seat. Is there a fuse i can pull to disable the ABS? for testing. Cheers, Tony
  4. I haven't found anyone who has used them yet, was hoping to get a recommendation. Saying that they are about the same price as buying patent replacement parts from a motorfactor so I might just take the punt on them. I will post up if I do.
  5. Hello All, I'm looking to upgrade my engine and gearbox mounts on my 2004 Legacy 3.0 Spec B and i was wondering if any one had used hardrace before? I couldn't find many reviews on them, but that may be my bad searching. https://h-tune.co.uk/hardrace-uprated-engine-mounts-set-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-92-11-forester-sh-09-13-legacy-bd-bg-bk-95-98-legacy-be-bh-bt-bl-bp-98-08/?currency=GBP&gclid=Cj0KCQiA05zhBRCMARIsACKDWjcRXaKbvak_BEVTWAJcSnUkUHyqxCfvqXjfT76crJc44hjfvmOQU1waAkxHEALw_wcB Are there any other options? Cheers, Tony
  6. Cheers for those Don, A christmas miracle happened and the boot now locks & unlocks with the key in the drivers door. I can only assume the BIU had to "re-calibrate" with the lock after is had been disconnected. I did nothing special, just went for a long drive back to my parents for Christmas. Now the boot works. I will be tackling the alarm soon so I can get the remote locking going again. Maybe i will have to fit a new S30 Sigma alarm or remove the alarm completely and try use a JDM style key, dont even know if that will work.
  7. Hello Everyone, Set the scene; I bought a '54 Legacy Estate R Spec B the remote locking has never worked but initially the boot/hatch did. One day I noticed that the boot had stopped locking/unlocking, at this point i realised half the electrics in the boot didn't work, so I checked the loom and it was very broken. I have since repaired the loom and everything, except the lock, is working. I have checked the continuity of the loom and it is wired correctly. I have taken the plug out under the dash and checked the continuity to the boot, the loom from the front of the car is fine. I have checked for a signal when I lock the car at the plug but i only have a light bulb tester and a multimeter, as far as i can tell there is no signal. I have applied 12v across the lock and it has locked and unlocked. I have interrogated the wiring diagram and from what i can see the Body Integrated Unit is where the power comes from but there is no fuse in this system. In a possibly related note, I tried to code my remote to the car today as it "ran out of battery" according to the previous owner and i have just put in a new battery. The remote still doesn't work and i also noticed there is no power going to the pin pad for the thatcham alarm. So what would stop the BIU from sending a signal to the boot? Is the BIU broken? Do you think the alarm having no power is related? What would stop the alarm from having power and how do i go about reactivating it? Lots of questions there, im sorry. Any light on the subject, ideas, anything please? Cheers, Tony
  8. Hello Everyone, New development on my car today when trying to reverse park in a car park. As I get close to full lock in either direction the speed at which I am traveling becomes notchy. The steering doesn't become notchy, its the motion, like I had a lump on the tyre. If I actually go on full lock its enough resistance to stall the car, even with some revs. So my conclusion is something is mechanically jamming up. My first thoughts were CV joints but after reading some posts a lot of people are talking about the front diff being the problem. I'm not sure how my cars front diff is set up, is it some form of LSD? Because I struggle to believe an open diff could cause this. What are your thoughts/ideas? And how would you go about diagnosing it? Any and all help super appreciated. Car is a Legacy 3.0 R Spec B Estate 6 Speed Manual. Cheers, Tony
  9. This is awesome information! Thank you. Also thank you for showing me where i can get to the parts catalogue!
  10. Hello All, Apologies if this isn't the right section to post this. I am looking for a bush kit for my gear shifter linkage and I am really struggling to find one. I have a 2004 Legacy (Mk.IV BP) with the 3.0 H6 with the 6 speed gearbox. I would prefer an upgraded kit made from polyurethane or nylon, does anyone know where to get one? Is the linkage the same as some of the imprezas? Cheers, Tony
  11. Thank you for the welcome guys! I have taken off the plastic side skirts today and begun cutting out the rust, the rest of the body work seems pretty rust free so that's good. Going to waxoyl inside the chassis and then underseal the outside, hopefully keep it going rust free for a few more years. One thing i am really struggling to find is a bush kit for the gear linkage, any ideas? The full polybush kit is on order, the bushes need doing even if they arn't the cause of the pulling to one side under braking. I will check those caliper pins though, i used to own Honda's and every one of them needed the calipers refurbishing, is this a Japanese thing?
  12. Hello Scooby People, I have recently dived into the world of Subaru ownership. After overcoming the temptation to buy one of the abundant dirt cheap saab aero estates, I have purchased a Subaru Legacy R Spec.B (UKDM) for a very "reasonable" price. "Why have you put reasonable in quotation marks?" I hear you ask. Well, there are some issues I knew about when I bought the car and there are some that I have found in the last few days of ownership, so it may end up being a money pit Issues I know about: Front O/S inner CV boot in two pieces, CV grease everywhere! Rear N/S wheel bearing play/noise Gear shifter is a wobbly mess Slight pull to the N/S under initial braking (suspect bushes) Cruise control didn't work (already fixed see; issues i didn't know about) The handle that lifts up the boot floor is broken The rear wiper doesn't return to a position, when you switch it off it just stops where it is Whine from auxiliaries Exhaust has a rattle (might be something else, comes from middle under the car at about 3krpm) Issues I didn't know about: The CEL was on, the cluster had been taken apart and had black elecy tape put over it so it didn't light up The CRUISE light had had the same treatment as above. Big ol' rust hole Now, I know you are thinking what an idiot for buying a car without checking the CEL, but let me prepare you for me being even more of an idiot: I noticed the CEL didn't light up on ignition but i liked the car so much that i told myself that "maybe these cars don't have it come on when you turn the ignition on", which is stupid. Don't do what i did kids, check the CEL. I've taken apart the dash and pulled off all the tape and reset the CEL and so far no codes, this also made the cruise control work again so fingers crossed. The code it had stored was P0056, so potential for the O2 sensor to need replacement but I was happy that was the only one when it could have been far worse. Hopefully the bodgey scam artist who added the tape (might not of been the previous owner as it came from auction) hasnt bodged anything else. So plans are (in no order): Repair the rust hole Replace CV Boot (ordered) Change suspension bushes, full poly-bush kit (ordered) Change gear linkage bushes <- anyone know of any good 6 speed kits??? Give it a service; Oil, Filters, Aux belt/tensioners etc Check timing chain tension (if i can work out how?) Work out how wipers set their park position? Tint the rear windows (nothing drastic, 40%?) referb the curbed wheels I'm going to be searching around for solutions to the problems I have listed above, if anyone wants to save me some button clicks and tell me where I can find anything relevant that would be excellent! Anyone who read all that, well done. Cheers, Tony
×
×
  • Create New...