t5nyw

my car can last near 2 weeks but then loses it very quickly then. Even with tracker disconnected. i normally just disconnect battery if over a week, will last 6+ months then. Tony also have same coditioner as Don, but happier not leaving charging on

Welcome to the Club. As said above a lovely car. looks very much like my very first scooby, although mime was T888. very low miles and std very rare to find a 12 year old classic thats not driven through hellfrauds with the bling magnet on full Tony

see post 6 by bonesetter https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension-12/918196-geometry-settings.html#post10398355 you see top settings are fast road on a classic the bottom one is newage but more track orientated

https://www.scoobynet.com/engine-management-and-ecu-remapping-453/1061474-jdm-2005-hawk-andy-f-remap-als-pin-out-number.html#post12074790

okay, if no leaks found, and parts are good, looking for something not obvious. hard to tell which route to go without seeing car. it does sound like decribe when anti lag or launch control engaged. trying to boost when stationary!! overfeulling!! By the way, when reving engine car stationary, you should not pull/see any boost, only vacuum. If you do, thats the fault, turbo boost actuator fault , boost soleniod pipes wrong way or relay normily open and closed (vise versa) pull relay, see if runs smooth statically. i would try and prove boost actuator, as above near imposble to do stationary, unless you frig bost relay. 1) boost actuator, it maybe not working properly, put pipe on actuator suck very hard and see if moves okay, think towards the windscreen a) Turbo actutor Not adjusted right, or sometimes original pipe have a restrictor, brass pin with small hole through and lost in pipe replacements. b) leaks pipes on wrong way round. C) closing two early or too late and incorrect fueling. Opening when stationary. 2) common dump valves a) inspect, you could test blank off but thats VERY Dodgy, dont go over 4Krpm or kill engine. 3) ECU Temp sensor, running with choke on. 4) Fit first exhaut sensor 5) 2 injectors, dribbling but unlikey. hope this helps. Tony ps we are enthusiasts trying to help, we are not mechanics and not aware of your capability

does your engine symbol amber fault light go on when ignition is switch on, then go off once starts up? did it do this from day you bought it? have you fitted exhuast or induction to it? has the car been remapped? not sure if that year can be!! have you any fault ECU codes? most common issues are air leaks have you an atmosperic dump valve. check all vacuum pipes for cracks/leaks check all boost pipes for leaks & splits swop 2 injectors two other sensors can play up, the temperature sensor for ECU, not the one for gauge. can run like choke fully on. okay ish when very cold but much worse when warm and the exhaust sensor, runs closed loop with no throttle and correct burn from exhaust sensor. when throttle put down open loop, burn controlled by Program Map. Tony

As you say, lots more choice but sadly they are, has beens. A lot of specialist moved on to the new kids on the block i put a 6x4 magnex on my bugeye Sti i was so impressed. but later replaced when PPP can out for it. Tony

lovelly Car, its not how fast they go, its all about the rumble

Welco wardy, welcome to the club The first 2 Scoob i nearly bought were Terzo,s but but bought near new 1999 Uk. First upgrade was same 6x4 Magnex. Ggreat quality but budget price, also fitted well. Rare as rocking horse poo. Think went bust. good upgade is 4 pots, many WRX,s upgrade to Brembo,s expensive but means wrx 4pots are much cheaper. Eibach lowering springs and 17" wheels are all do able. whiteline bits are resonable antilift kit, replace drop links. Short gear shifter Tony

yes still got it but has 105,000 miles . So a bit tired. I use it mostly on the track. i have 2011 saloon 340R but doesnt scratch the itch

Welcome to the SIDC I 100% agree to your choices, and should get you a Hawk STi or Hawk STi for that money. And on plus side it,s not your first Subaru "Rodeo" Although you will notice that JDMs prices are holding very well, which brings its own problems. I spent 5 months helping a local friend get a reasonable JDM Hawk. with any 15 year old performance car plenty of nails and Sheds are out there. Even obvious UK cars and not so, being sold as JDM,s. Some people didn,t know what they previously bought and so were conned. Others blatant rogues. JDMs that are mint enthusiasts cars are so rare and demand big bucks. There are a few reputable dealers out there and a very well known Rouge with new name. Perhaps concider a Fresh import but again car age against you, see what Auction code is has. I,m probably going against my normal adivise, as say get a mint, enthusiasts low millage UK as long as properly forged. it may be better choice than a rough JDM. best of luck Tony Tony

Dons pages good and helpful detail Another possible option (Depends on age of Car and which alarm fitted) but i had new fob cloned from a Scottish guy off Facebook & scoobynet as mine was oddball one on a JDM 2005 Car. He can also make new fob with programing instructions for certain most common UK alarms. about ￡90 single flip key fob type ￡150 ish a pair. Tony

Many used Ebay, i used a full set for my garage, reasonable cost and fair quality. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/subaru-impreza-wrc-vinyl-decal-sticker-kit-in-any-colour-full-set/221175357546?epid=1088283238&hash=item337f14206a:g:S9gAAOxyHslQ7JaH Tony

the car would appeal to the thousands but at that price limits it to a handfull. have you tried TBOTB or cargiveaways type raffle/lottery??? Tony