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MarkJHarris

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MarkJHarris last won the day on January 12

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About MarkJHarris

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  1. Not a fan of replicas. You can always spot them a mile off. Originals are two pice, have small covers under the outer edges and run a tensioned cable through them. Plus the O.E. brake light fits perfectly. I used Stiffi's on mine as they also have a tendency to crack the paint on the corner if your roads are nasty..... That upper vane Saj has is nice too. Improves the downforce from the main spoiler.. I put a fitting guide up on Scoobynet about 10 years ago.
  2. I'd have a long think about that. The 6 speed has the front diff built in- different drive shafts and hubs and uprights ,etc. The rear diff is matched to the gearbox ratios, again you'd need the driveshafts, hubs etc, etc. The 6 speed is a close ratio box and the top ratio isn't really any longer than your fifth. You're buzzing like crazy in an STI on motorways. If you wanted to swap to a 6 speed, with all the extra stuff you'd need, even if you avoided a later DCCD box, you'd be economically better just buying an STI. I didn't just say that because mine's still for sale by the
  3. 15psi is about 1Bar. That's what a 2.5 STI puts out O.E map and should give about 280bhp. Temp dependant. It's about as much as you'd want to put through a WRX gearbox though! Any more you'd need the STI 6 speed. Mine is stabled at 1BAR and gives 285-300bhp depending on temp, runs slightly leaner as it's mapped specifically for V power. On Map2 it gives 1.5BAR, 23psi and that settles at about 360bhp and 400ft/Lb of torque. Frankly I only use that once in a blue moon. Standard is more than enough for normal road use.
  4. I spent a fortune fitting Dynamat all round mine, quality speakers on adaptors, amp, sub, the lot. You know what. No matter how you try to quieten an impreza it just doesn't work. The car's glass is too thin. Wheel arches too thin and road noise and wind noise will stil lruin any attempt at decent sounds. There. glad I got that off my chest.
  5. I'm not "upgrading" my Hawk anytime soon.
  6. Don't do many miles on them to be honest. They showed absolutely no wear after the 5,000 miles to Turkey and back though. Lots of high speed runs in that lot too. They're about to come out of the box (garden storage box round the back) where they've sat since April. I'll report back then. They were absolutely fine last winter though. Edges still sharp and worked perfectly on the snow we had. They live on a spare set of O.E. alloys and are cleaned/polished and tyres cleared of any stones and silicone sprayed before storage. Pampered.....
  7. Yep. I run a set of Pirelli SottoZero in standard size 225/45/17. I use original Subaru Alloys as they clear the brakes and look fine. Wheels need a good clean and polish first, then put Rain-X on them (an old Ferrari valetter's trick). The SottoZeros are now 6 years old and have virtually no wear on them at all! This includes a fast hack to Turkey and back (2,500 miles each way.) 6 Winters and they're about to go on again probably for the last time. They do feel different and need the suspension backing off to feel right.
  8. Having used covers on mine, I have to say a set that runs from the rear spoiler right over the roofline, without making the spoiler obvious is preferable. A lot to be said for making your car look like a condescript estate car......
  9. It's a bit boring on Winter Tyres actually. Mine just goes about like the roads are normal. The number of times I've got out and nearly fell over as I've realised I've been driving on sheet ice but never knew is crazy. Hills, camber, you name it... just too easy.
  10. If only. An Impreza chassis, with 100bhp electric motors sat in pairs inboard, one per wheel, would make a phenomenal car. Add a set of decent batteries set for ideal CoG and a smallish generator engine set low and rearward in the engine bay and it would be a true weapon. We can only dream...
  11. Mine has always done it too. Always much better on DCCD set to manual and fully off. It is just a bit of wind up on the 4WD and nothing at all to worry about. The rear Diffs have worm gears that under load and any difference in rotation will force the worm out into a clutch pack to lock the wheel to the crown. In reverse the worm gear can ping in to the stop easily and be very "agricultural" to say the least. It's still better than crappy open diffs and a clever ABS using the brakes as an LSD...
  12. My Hawk was utterly crap as standard. Even with the RE070 it felt it was relying on the tyres rather than any inherent chassis ability. The Coilovers and Whiteline kit I've fitted have given it a lot more natural feel, grip and balance. Whiteline ALK. Removes the understeer under power and stops the front being too stiff under braking. Whiteline adjustable Rear ARB. I use it on the softest setting. BC ZR Coilovers. Ordered with minimum 10kg/8kg springs. +40mm length. IO run them at O.E. ride height, less 10mm at the front. I changed the rears to 6kg and fitted the rear 8kg to
  13. I live on the Isle of Man....plenty of space to ope nit up and use the power! I have a dual mapped setup so a choice of 360 or 280bhp. I can't remember the last time I bothered to put it in high boost...... That should tell you the reality of spending a fortune to get extra ponies to enable you to reach the next queue at the red lights 1 second quicker....
  14. With the EJ 2.5 it really depends on boost. If left standard, it really will last a long time. Providing you stick to service schedules. It seems the O.E 1.0BAR is spot on for this engine. If you go above 1.2BAR boost, it lifts the heads causing head gasket failure. Above 1.3BAR and it's virtually guaranteed they'll blow. Ringland isn't too much of a problem if you let it warm up first. Other than that once the gaskets fail, the No 3 gets too hot and then the ringlands can go. The 2.5 is NOT a competition homologated engine. Not, your Hatch and later cars aren't strictly EJs I
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