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markjharris last won the day on June 28 2014

markjharris had the most liked content!

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About markjharris

  • Birthday 21/04/69

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Isle of Man
  • Interests
    Fuel Economy......
    Riding motorbikes. Fast.
  • Car
    2006STi Spec D

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  1. The light fitted in the WRX low spoiler I think uses the same LED unit as the STi one. I swapped over and they certainly look the same, except for the housing being painted on one of the them.
  2. Reached the top and there's now plenty to go around. Except I can't afford to bring mine over for a bit. Ho hum...
  3. Which is what I'll do this Summer when I take it down for the cam belts at Alan's.
  4. Hi, I had the same problem. I now have a spare pump as mine was ok and the fault was a seized (open) solenoid valve. If you look at parts 1 and 6 in the abov e picture, these are the two valves, for sending the fresh compressed air into the exhaust ports. They get moisture in them, particularly the front one, 6. This was my fault. It had put the MIL light on and eventually had gone into limp mode restricting boost to 0.5 bar. I got two newer, clean valves from Alan Jeffery at a quite reasonable price of £50 for both. The aft one is easy to change bu the front one is an utter pig. to get to the mounting bolt, it requires the alternator, air con pump, and the guide to the wiring under the manifold to be all unbolted/removed. The back one needs the intercooler to come off. All done and working fine now. Spare pump available if anyone wants it. I could block them off but I have limited access to a mapping agent here so it can wait until I go down to Alan later in the year for the Cam Belt change. The Turbo itself really blocks access to the pipe fitting in the right head, very tight indeed. Probably easier to block off and seal at the other end of the pipe and leave it there.. Only fitted to 2.5 cars and a pain in the arse. I keep my engine bay looking stock which is why I didn't remove them. If it's seized open it will cause lean running and a fault/detune so needs attention either way. Once they are working fine they can be switched off and left on. Now that is a nuisance...
  5. Being Manx registered mine fell out of the system. Back now and waiting. Apparently every dealer has a waiting list and they work down it whenever they get supplied the parts, usually a couple every month. Pretty pitiful from IM but maybe it's a worldwide supply issue rather than them. I should reach the top of the queue in April.....
  6. Coilovers give you adjustment. It's up to the buyer to specify what they want. Beware the sets that lower your car, that's my main point. lower cars with lower roll centres need stiffer springs and thus firmer damping. A set that allows standard ride height, means you can use softer springs and tune the damping to your preference. I can only recommend BC Racing's ER series from my own experience. I ordered them long travel and plush high speed damping. That's just how they came. Mid point in the adjustment of the lower mounts was exactly the same physical length of the O.E. struts. That gave me 40mm of possible adjustment either way. I never run them longer as the headlight level sensors and ABS sensor cables might be damaged if I do. Spring length and helper springs are then tuned for actual rider height. I now run with 6kg front and 5kg rear. Damping is about half way 15 turns out all; round as a start. At 20 turns out the car tends to wallow a bit, below 10 it bangs and crashes on poorer roads. I have much longer 4kg and 3 1/2kg springs for Winter if I plan to use it more. Not bothered this Winter.
  7. Sorry about the delay. Coil overs can be a straight swap but it depends on what you specify. Often Coils are specced to lower the ride height (a bad thing) and give too harsh a ride. The problems with the standard car are simple. Too soft springs and long bump stops that come into play too soon, changing the rate and leaving the damping wrong. Too much anti-dive/squat in the front end causing understeer under load and harshness braking into bumpy corners. Good points are long lower arms and quite upright struts thus having a relatively high roll centre with low Centre of gravity. Low roll torque means they can get away with softer springs and improve ride on smooth roads. Ford's Mondeo had the same thing and transformed the quality of normal cars as a result. Fixes include Whiteline's Anti-Lift kit. Bigger rear anti-roll bar and best of all, coil over struts to give a better spring/damper setup. I use BC ER series coils, specced with 6kg/5kg F/R springs and plush high speed damping. I have the long travel option with helper springs fitted too. This way I can run O.E. ride height or slightly higher for winter as well as dropping it for track work if I wanted. The Pillow Ball adjustable top mounts allow for alternative roll centre changes too, allowing me to trim the roll centres to stop diving when cornering. The Standard car pitches into the back corner too easily... mine rolls flat. Hope that helps. Cheaper Coils just drop the car and need the stiffer springs to stop the increased roll that comes with lower roll centre. Sorry, I do prattle on. Roll centre is the point about which the suspension causes the car to rotate. It is found by finding the line drawn from inner to outer lower arm pivots and extended, with the line drawn perpendicular to the top of the strut and where they intersect, draw back to the centre of the tyre contact patch. Where this crosses the centreline of the car is the roll centre. Centre of Gravity is what it is. The distance from this point to the roll centre determines the roll torque caused by side loads when cornering. The Springs and Anti-Roll bars counter this force. Lowering the car 1" will lower the CoG 1". The Roll centre will drop 3"-4" at least. Thus the roll torque increases. The car will roll more (notice all cars roll more when full of extra people/baggage).Stiff springs are used to counter this. That's the theory.
  8. NO! I do wish folk would stop lowering their Imprezas. It may "look" nice but it plays havoc with the handling. The standard car is bad enough... It's all about the roll centres..
  9. Coil overs are the answer. Damping and spring rate are what you spec. First you need to know more about what is fitted as O.E. On my 2006 STi, the stock springs were 4kg and 3 3/.4 rear. I have 6kg/5kg now fitted. I specced long travel plush high speed damping for my BC ER series coil over package.I use normal springs and helpers, switching to longer 4kg and 3/3/4kg springs for Winter if I'm using it a lot. (not bothered this winter). I can go from bouncy and undamped to rock hard with a few clicks so it's tunable as I so desire. Your new version is different at the back but I think, coils are available with seperate Bump/Rebound adjusters. Otherwise- You got the wrong car/Wife? Get her something she likes and keep the Scooby for yourself.
  10. Still need to wire it up but have the circuit drawn out OK. A pair of 10 minute rear heating circuit relays on order and found a switch that goes into the blank where the headlight levelling would be. The aim is to wire the light in it up to the output so when it goes off so does the little switch light. Shame I couldn't find a momentary latching switch instead but might find one before I get the chance to do it. Back at work now for a few days of lovely standby....
  11. Hi all. i know this topic crops up every few years, going by the searches... I've just had one fitted into my Spec D 06 STi. Very nice it is too. View is just like a ford, only oncoming sunlight gives a slight view of the filaments. Two separate elements in this one from Ricky Evans Motorsport. £250 odd, but went through my insurance as I had a large chip in the original. Downsides? No gap in the screen printing for the chassis number plate. No spotted tint between the sun visors either. Best bit is the wires come from the bottom edge so you can wire it up outside the car instead of messing about under the dash save for the switch. Used universal edge trim that is close to the O.E. style. Will finish the wiring tomorrow. Still sorting the I.C.E. out right now....
  12. I have a nice French sourced Wifi one. Cleared a few codes on my Espace and will show sensor data on my phone app too. Also used it on my STi to clear out the codes when I replaced the Starter air solenoids. Very useful tool.
  13. Is it standard? Not much difference underneath to a Saloon except Wagons tend to be narrower in the body. Roll is a factor of The Centre of gravity in relation to the roll centre giving rise to a roll torque when a side acceleration is applied. In English, When you turn the wheel it will roll more if the roll centre is lower, i.e. the car is lowered, or the springs are soft, or anti roll bars smaller. The cheapest way to reduce roll is a set of slightly stiffer springs. This in itself will lift the car a touch raising roll centre and reducing roll. Second hand saloon WRX parts maybe? Probably a bit obvious. sorry.
  14. A bigger bonnet scoop and paint the skirts and she's done.
  15. what's an MOT? :-)